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ABOUT LUBRICANTS

LUBRICANTS - You've Got "New Rules" Now

If there's one thing that is always the topic of the day, it's the questions we get regarding lubricants. Let us first start out by saying that we are not "lube guys". However, since we've dealt with every form of racing for over 12 years, we've picked up a thing or two, namely because we get a lot of feedback from a few that do know about this subject. So while we'll never say which brand or grade to use, we'll be happy to pass along some general guidelines:

First off, remember that on a daily basis, your "real world" friction comes from the effort it takes to get the oil out of the way of the ball, roller or gear tooth. So it stands to reason that oil viscosity is the key player here.

There is no "special" lubricants you need to use. MicroBlue® works just fine with all commercially available lubricants.

Additives that come in lubricants (rear-gear oil for example) work fine are not anything to be concerned about.

If you have an additive you've been using in the past, you can continue to use it without any problems.

MicroBlue® is equally effective with both petroleum and synthetic based lubricants, the choice is yours.

The one thing to consider however, is that due to MicroBlue's effect on lubricant properties, you now have more flexibility in terms if viscosity. In terms of wheel bearings, a straight weight 50 wt. transmission oil is more than sufficient for steer and trailer hubs. A 75/120 will cause no problems, you just don't need the extra viscosity.

Regarding engine oils, you need not be concerned if the new, lower viscosity synthetics will result in undue wear. There's more than enough viscosity there to get the job done. We personally prefer synthetics, primarily due to their ability to maintain their viscosity in both hot and cold climates.

For MicroBlue® custom-built transmissions, the commonly available 50 wt. synthetic is our choice. Brand is not important. Again, a 75/120 is fine, you just don't need the extra viscosity, particularly during the winter months.

While the jury is still out on differential requirements, at this point we're recommending sticking with a 75/90 synthetic for two reasons. The first is for shock loads. The second is that the commonly available brands have additives designed to provide additional "cushioning", thus offering additional protection to the gears and bearings. However, we do have a number of customers using a 50 wt. with no problems.

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